Christmas in Provence – Between traditions and family moments

Decorating the Christmas tree – a magical family moment filled with joy and light

In Provence, Christmas is more than just a holiday — it’s a true celebration!From the wheat seeds planted on December 4th to the famous thirteen desserts on Christmas Eve, every gesture tells a story, an inheritance passed down from generation to generation.

Born in Paris, I discovered Provence later in life — first as a student in Aix-en-Provence, then as a resident in Éguilles, and now in Rousset. Today, my family and I celebrate Christmas in our own way — less traditional, but always heartfelt.

What matters most to us is being together, laughing, enjoying good food and good wine. Still, we like to keep a few Provençal traditions alive… like the celebration of Sainte-Barbe.

I. The Sainte Barbara

Wheat seeds of Sainte-Barbe – a Provençal symbol of prosperity and hope for the coming year

The Christmas season in Provence begins on December 4th, the day of Sainte-Barbe, patron saint of miners, firefighters, and artillerymen.

According to legend, Sainte Barbe, a young woman martyred in the 3rd century, was beheaded by her father for refusing to renounce her faith. He was immediately struck by lightning.

Since then, Provençal families have kept a beautiful tradition: planting wheat seeds in three small bowls lined with damp cotton. If the sprouts grow straight and green, the year ahead will be prosperous. These little green “fields” are placed by the crib or the fireplace, symbolizing abundance and hope.

At home, it’s a family ritual too — each child plants their own bowl. We water them, we watch the first sprouts appear… and every year, one always grows tall and bright green!

The bowls usually sit on the mantel or (less traditionally) in front of the TV — but it still has its charm.

II. The Cacho-Fio or "Light the fire"

The Cacho-Fio, an ancient Provençal ritual of lighting the Christmas log on December 24th

After Sainte-Barbe, the Christmas atmosphere slowly spreads across Provence.

On Christmas Eve, some families continue an ancient custom known as le cacho-fio — literally, “light the fire.” The youngest and the oldest family members carry a fruitwood log, circle the table three times, sprinkle it with cooked wine, and finally light it.

The log is meant to burn for three days and three nights, a symbol of warmth and family continuity.At home, we no longer light a Yule log — just the fireplace and the candles on the table.

I’ve often heard about this beautiful tradition but have never experienced it myself. One day, I hope to. In the meantime, I enjoy wandering through Christmas markets and santon fairs that fill Provence with light and joy.

III. The crib and the santons

The Provençal Nativity scene and its santons – a miniature village full of poetry and life

After fire comes earth — the one that gives life to the santons.

From mid-November, Christmas markets and santon fairs animate the villages of Provence. These little clay figures represent both the Nativity and village life: bakers, shepherds, washerwomen, fishmongers… a miniature world filled with color and poetry.

I’ve always loved this tradition, even if our nativity scene at home is simple — sometimes just a few santons placed under the Christmas tree.

I still cherish the memory of my grandmother’s nativity scene and the Santons Museum in Les Baux-de-Provence, which I sometimes visit with my students during their French immersions in Provence.

IV. The great supper and the 13 desserts

The Provençal Christmas supper – a simple yet symbolic and generous festive meal

Then comes the most anticipated moment… For children, it’s the gifts — for adults, it’s the meal, right?

Traditionally, the Grand Souper takes place before Midnight Mass. Three white tablecloths symbolize the Holy Trinity, and thirteen desserts represent Christ and his twelve apostles.

The “four beggars” — dried figs, almonds, raisins, and walnuts — symbolize the four religious orders, while dates, nougat, and the olive oil pompe à huile complete the table.

At home, our desserts are a bit more modern: nougat, fresh fruit, clementines, chocolates… We take inspiration from the tradition without strictly following it.

Because Christmas, above all, is about sharing and joy.

V. Midnight mass

Midnight strikes – a timeless moment of light, emotion, and Christmas magic

When I was a child, I used to go to Midnight Mass with my grandmother, who was deeply attached to her Catholic faith.The Provençal songs, the lights, the nativity scene… It was magical.

Today, this tradition has slowly disappeared from our family life. We celebrate Christmas differently now — around a big table, with laughter, stories, a bit of mulled wine, and a few fruit jellies.

Still, I find it touching that in some villages, the pastorales and the shepherds’ procession still exist — like a golden thread connecting past and present.

VI. Christmas in Provence today

Traditions evolve, but the spirit remains the same: warmth, light, and conviviality.

Whether we plant wheat on Sainte-Barbe or simply share a good dinner by the fire, Christmas in Provence always carries that special sense of sweetness and togetherness.

And if you come to stay with me for a French immersion, I’ll be delighted to share these local traditions with you — both ancient and modern — through culture, cuisine, and the authentic Provençal way of life.

See you soon in Provence 🌟

Virginie in Provence