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Hiking on Sainte-Victoire mountain during my French immersion stay in Provence

Updated: 7 days ago

David hiking on the trail leading to the summit of Sainte-Victoire mountain, with panoramic views over Provence
David climbing toward the summit under the Provençal sun

Hello everyone.


My name is David, I am English, and I came to stay with Virginie and her family for a French immersion program in July.


As I am sporty, Virginie suggested that we go hiking on the Sainte-Victoire mountain, near Aix-en-Provence. I was very happy when Virginie asked me if I could write a few words about the excursion we did together.

It’s a great way to practice my written French!


So I’m going to tell you about our hike on the Sainte-Victoire mountain, using simple French


Sainte-Victoire, a landmark of Provence

 

Depiction of Sainte-Victoire mountain in a painting by Paul Cézanne, with its characteristic ochre, green, and blue tones
Sainte-Victoire as seen by Paul Cézanne

The Sainte-Victoire seen by Paul Cézanne.

Sainte-Victoire mountain is a very well-known natural site in Provence. One of the reasons it is famous is that it was often painted by Paul Cézanne, the most famous Provençal artist.

In fact, it was thanks to Cézanne that I already knew about Sainte-Victoire before my stay with Virginie.


Orientation sign indicating the Sainte-Victoire priory and the Croix de Provence, with the inscription “Welcome to the lands of the Sainte-Victoire priory.”
Simplified map of the trails around the priory and the Croix de Provence

If you don’t know Sainte-Victoire, I’ll describe it to you. It is a huge mass of white stone dominating the landscape with impressive cliffs. The rock is white, the earth is ochre, and the trees are green — exactly like in Cézanne’s paintings. It truly is a magnificent place!


A very appealing hike for a sporty person


For me, the idea of climbing Sainte-Victoire was very appealing. In England, I am a very enthusiastic hiker. In fact, next week I will be walking part of the Camino de Santiago, so I had brought my hiking shoes with me.

 

Setting off toward Sainte-Victoire

 

Panoramic view of Sainte-Victoire mountain surrounded by pine trees and Mediterranean scrubland, near Aix-en-Provence
The white silhouette dominating the Provençal landscape

The white silhouette dominating the Provençal landscape.

The weather forecast announces 38 degrees in the afternoon, so we decide to leave early.

Sainte-Victoire mountain is about a 35-minute drive from Virginie’s home. At that time, Virginie was living in Éguilles, a small Provençal village. When we arrive, we see that we need to follow the red signs to reach the summit. Very simple… in theory.


But Virginie and I both have a poor sense of direction. Right from the start, we take the wrong path!

We walk for 45 minutes before meeting a very kind man who explains our mistake. Fortunately, the view is magnificent, so we are happy to be there anyway.


Cézanne’s refuge

Small building known as Cézanne’s refuge, located along the trail leading to the Croix de Provence
Cézanne’s refuge, a peaceful stop on the way to the summit

Cézanne’s refuge, a peaceful stop on the way to the summit.

On the way, we discover Cézanne’s refuge. Cézanne used this house as a shelter when he was painting the mountain. I read the explanatory panel with great interest.


We then take the correct path. The temperature keeps rising, but the trail is not very difficult. There are sometimes a few steep sections, but overall the path is accessible to everyone.

 

Toward the summit: the priory and the Croix de Provence

Sainte-Victoire Priory, a stone building located near the summit, surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation
The priory nestled in the heart of the mountain

The priory nestled in the heart of the mountain.

Since I feel like making a more intense effort, I leave Virginie and walk faster toward the summit. It is very hot and I am sweating a lot. I arrive at an old priory, where I take a short break to enjoy the beauty of Provence.


The Croix de Provence standing at the summit of Sainte-Victoire mountain, with open views over the Aix region
The Croix de Provence, the highest point of the hike

Then I continue until I reach the Croix de Provence, which marks the summit of the mountain. From up there, the view is incredible.


An unexpected meeting at the top

Surveillance hut installed at the summit, used in summer to monitor forest fires and alert firefighters
The small hut overlooking Provence

There are already five people at the summit. I introduce myself and start talking with them.

There are two sisters, Elsa and Laurens, their friend Teal, an American pastor, and two young women named Sheherezade and Claire.


Their work is very interesting: they spend the summer at the top of the mountain to monitor forest fires and protect the Aix-en-Provence area.

They observe the landscape, and if they see smoke, they alert the firefighters.


Finding each other again… after getting lost once more

Group photo at the summit of Sainte-Victoire mountain after the hike, under a bright blue sky
Reunited at the summit after a few unexpected detours

 

After about thirty minutes, I decide to go back down to find Virginie. I follow the red signs… but of course, we once again take different paths.


I begin to worry, but I send her a message on WhatsApp. Fortunately, there is reception, and Virginie replies quickly: she is already at the summit, with everyone else.

So I climb back up very quickly, and we take photos together.


A very pleasant atmosphere


At the summit, the atmosphere is very warm. Every person who arrives is welcomed with a big “Welcome!” People are happy to talk. After all, we all share the same experience: we have climbed the mountain together.

 

A longer descent than expected

Forest path lined with trees leading toward Sainte-Victoire mountain in Provence
The pine-lined trail leading up the mountain

The pine-lined trail leading up the mountain.

But our adventures are not over. On the way down, we once again take the wrong path. We turn right instead of left.


Each mistake is not serious in itself, but when you add them up, it becomes difficult: it is very hot and we have almost no water left.


My advice: hike Sainte-Victoire in spring or autumn


We finally arrive at the bottom after six hours of walking — a magnificent hike, but rather for people with a good sense of direction! I think it is an excellent idea to do this hike in spring or autumn, when temperatures are milder.


In any case, I am very happy to have done this hike with Virginie. I enjoyed the sporting challenge, the small misadventures, and above all the experience. It was a wonderful opportunity to speak French, to experience Provence differently, and to discover a truly unique place. I will never forget it.


Also read – Discover Provence during a French immersion stay


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If you are coming for a French immersion stay in Provence, I sincerely invite you to contact Virginie in Provence. She will be delighted to help you discover the landscapes, scents, culture, and gastronomy of the region, while helping you improve your French naturally, day by day.

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