Discovering Moustiers-Sainte-Marie during a French immersion in Provence
Hello, my name is Nina. I’m Australian and I come from a small village near Sydney.
When I decided to spend a week on a French immersion with Virginie, I chose to come in autumn. I wanted to discover Provence at a quieter time of year, enjoy pleasant temperatures and avoid the crowds of July and August.
During my stay, Virginie suggested several excursions. One of them was Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a village I had never heard of before.
Before we left, I looked at a few photos online. The village looked beautiful. I immediately wanted to discover it for myself.
On the road to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
On October 11, we set off for Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.
The journey itself is already part of the experience. We drove through part of the Verdon Regional Natural Park, with its vast landscapes and scenery that changes as the kilometres go by.
This region is particularly known for the Verdon Gorge, Lake Sainte-Croix and the Valensole plateau. On the way, we stopped on the Valensole plateau.
In summer, the fields are famous for their long rows of purple lavender. But in October, the landscape is completely different. The lavender has already been cut, leaving small grey-green bushes perfectly aligned against the red and ochre earth.
It wasn’t the classic image of Provence you see on postcards. And yet, I found the landscape beautiful. Around us, the autumn colours, the earth, the stones and the sky created a setting that was very different from what I had imagined before my trip.
Arriving in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
As we approached Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the landscape became even more spectacular.
The village appears at the foot of towering rocky cliffs. The houses seem to be nestled right against the mountain.
But what immediately caught my eye was even higher up.
Above the village, between the cliffs, I spotted a small chapel: Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir.
I immediately knew I wanted to climb up there.
We began by walking through the village and along Rue Marcel de Provence before following the path leading up to the chapel.
Climbing to the Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir chapel
To reach Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir, you have to climb above the village along an old paved path and up its many stone steps. The higher we climbed, the smaller Moustiers seemed below us.
The view changed with every step. The rooftops of the village gradually disappeared beneath us, while the cliffs became an increasingly impressive part of the landscape.
Then the chapel appeared, surrounded by rocks and cypress trees.
After the effort of the climb, simply arriving at this secluded place above the village was an experience in itself.
Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir, a chapel steeped in history
The Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir chapel has been part of the history of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie for several centuries. Built between the 12th and 16th centuries, it combines elements of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. It was listed as a historic monument in 1921.
But its history is also connected to a much more unusual tradition.
In the past, Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir was what was known as a “sanctuary of respite”. According to an old belief, families brought stillborn babies there in the hope that they might briefly return to life, just long enough to be baptised.
This story may seem strange today, but it also reflects the importance the chapel held for local people and pilgrims over the centuries.
Knowing this story before stepping inside gives the place a completely different dimension.
Inside Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir
When we entered the chapel, the atmosphere changed completely. After the bright light outside, the interior seemed dark and silent. A little colour filtered through the stained-glass windows. Gradually, our eyes adjusted to the dim light and we could make out the choir and the altar.
We sat down. I don’t know exactly how long we stayed there. There was no one else. Only silence.
What I remember most is the feeling of calm. I felt peaceful, almost protected in this place suspended above the village.
It is probably one of my strongest memories of that day.
Walking back down and discovering another side of the village
After our time in the chapel, we walked back down towards Moustiers. As we reached the little streets of the village, I found a completely different atmosphere. Stone houses, narrow streets, little squares, terraces and plenty of artisan shops.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is particularly known for its faience, a centuries-old tradition that is part of the village’s identity. As you walk through the streets, you’ll find many shops and workshops dedicated to this craft.
I enjoyed taking the time to look at the façades, the little streets and all the details of the village.
After climbing to the chapel and experiencing the silence we had found up there, returning to the lively streets of Moustiers almost felt like discovering a second place.
Lunch on a terrace in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Of course, after walking and climbing all the way up to the chapel, we were hungry.We chose a restaurant in the village and sat outside on the terrace. I ordered prawns with pastis.
It doesn’t get much more Provençal than that!
And apparently, I wasn’t the only one who found my plate interesting: a village cat came and sat near us and seemed very interested in our lunch. These little moments are also part of the memories we bring home from a trip.
Lunch on a terrace, a slightly too-curious cat, a conversation, a few new words in French…
Nothing extraordinary at first glance, but that is exactly what I loved about this week.
Why I loved discovering Moustiers in autumn
When you think of Provence, you often imagine summer, sunshine and fields of lavender in bloom.
But I really enjoyed discovering the region in autumn.
The landscapes are different, the colours change and the atmosphere is quieter.
In Moustiers, we were able to walk peacefully through the village, climb to the chapel and take our time.
If I had to choose a season to come back, I would probably choose autumn or spring again.
Virginie’s tip
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is an excursion that deserves time.
Don’t come just to photograph the village and leave. The climb to Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir allows you to experience Moustiers from another perspective and enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding landscape.
Wear good shoes: the stones can be slippery and the climb takes a little effort. And above all, leave yourself enough time to simply wander through the village streets after coming back down.
What this day taught me about French immersion
Learning French during an immersion doesn’t only mean sitting at a table with a notebook and studying vocabulary. French is everywhere. It is in the signs you try to understand, the restaurant menu, a conversation with a shopkeeper, the names of dishes and the stories Virginie tells about the places we visit.
During this day in Moustiers, I was discovering Provence while using French in real-life situations. That is what makes this kind of learning so different from a traditional French lesson.
You learn without necessarily feeling as though you are studying.
Useful French vocabulary for discovering Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Un village perché: A hilltop village
Une chapelle: A chapel
Une falaise: A cliff
Une ruelle: A narrow street
Un chemin pavé: A paved or cobbled path
La faïence: Earthenware / faience pottery
Un artisan: A craftsperson
Un paysage: A landscape
Une terrasse: An outdoor terrace
Monter / descendre: To go up / to go down
Frequently asked questions about Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Where is Moustiers-Sainte-Marie?
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department, within the Verdon Regional Natural Park. The village is close to the Verdon Gorge and Lake Sainte-Croix.
What is Moustiers-Sainte-Marie known for?
The village is particularly known for its spectacular location at the foot of the cliffs, the Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir chapel and its tradition of faience pottery.
Can you visit Moustiers-Sainte-Marie in autumn?
Yes. Autumn is a chance to experience the village in a different atmosphere from summer. The colours of the landscape change and there are generally fewer visitors than during the peak summer season.
What is Moustiers faience?
Faience has been part of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie’s artisanal heritage for several centuries. The village still has workshops and shops dedicated to this traditional craft today.
Why visit Moustiers during a French immersion?
An excursion gives you the opportunity to use French in real-life situations: reading signs, ordering in a restaurant, discovering new vocabulary, talking to shopkeepers or simply discussing what you see.
French then becomes a natural part of your day.
A day I would love to experience again
When I think back to my stay in Provence, this day in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie remains one of my favourite memories.
I remember the landscapes of the Valensole plateau, arriving at the foot of the cliffs, climbing up to the chapel
and, above all, the silence we found up there.
I also remember much simpler things: walking through the streets, having lunch on a terrace, speaking French and taking the time to discover a place I hadn’t known just a few hours earlier.
That is probably what I remember most about this immersion.
I didn’t just visit Provence.
I lived it.
With all my love,
Nina
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