Max Ernst exhibition in Aix-en-Provence: a look back at a remarkable exhibition at Hôtel de Caumont (2023)
- virginieinprovence
- Jun 2
- 4 min read

Virginie knows that I love art. In fact, this was already my third French immersion stay in Provence with her. My name is Angela, and you may have already read some of my previous articles. Writing these stories is a wonderful way for me to practise my French while sharing my discoveries.
During this stay, we dedicated a day to exploring the cultural scene of Aix-en-Provence. Between the exhibition "Max Ernst, Magical Worlds, Liberated Worlds" at Hôtel de Caumont and several exhibitions presented as part of the Comic Strip and Associated Arts Festival at the Cité du Livre, it was a day full of discoveries.
Both events were temporary exhibitions held in 2023. Although they are no longer on display today, I wanted to look back on this memorable day, which remains one of my favourite cultural experiences in Provence.
I invite you to join me on this artistic journey through Aix-en-Provence and discover the artists who particularly captured my attention.
Max Ernst exhibition in Aix-en-Provence: our visit to Hôtel de Caumont
We began our day at Hôtel de Caumont, one of the most beautiful cultural venues in Aix-en-Provence.
This former 18th-century private mansion has been carefully restored and transformed into an art centre. During your visit, you can also discover Pauline de Caumont's bedroom as well as the magnificent gardens surrounding the property.
Hôtel de Caumont regularly hosts major international exhibitions that attract visitors from around the world.
It was on the first floor that the exhibition dedicated to Max Ernst began.
Who was Max Ernst?
Born in Germany in 1891 and deceased in Paris in 1976, Max Ernst is considered one of the major artists of the Surrealist movement of the twentieth century.
A painter, sculptor, printmaker and inventor of numerous artistic techniques, he profoundly influenced modern art.
Among his innovations were:
frottage;
grattage;
collage;
decalcomania.
Throughout his life, he held three nationalities: German, French and American.
From an early age, he developed a strong interest in the arts. He began studying philosophy but quickly abandoned his studies to devote himself entirely to his artistic career.
He first became involved with the Dada movement before joining the Surrealists in the 1920s.
Max Ernst's most famous works
Among his best-known creations are:
The Elephant Celebes (1921)
The Virgin Chastising the Christ Child before Three Witnesses (1926)
A Little Girl Dreams of Taking the Veil / The Hundred Headless Woman (1929)
The Joy of Life (1936)
The exhibition allowed visitors to follow the evolution of his work over several decades.
His early works were relatively figurative before gradually becoming more abstract.
Personally, I particularly enjoyed A Tissue of Lies (1959). I was drawn to its colours and composition. Some of his later works touched me less, especially those featuring stylised faces that sometimes reminded me of modern emojis.
What impressed me most was Max Ernst's ability to constantly reinvent himself throughout his career.
The comic strip festival in Aix-en-Provence: discovering Emilie Gleason
After our visit to Hôtel de Caumont, we headed to the Cité du Livre, another cultural landmark in Aix-en-Provence.
There, we discovered several exhibitions organised as part of the Comic Strip and Associated Arts Festival.
The artist who most captured my attention was Emilie Gleason with her work Junk Food.
Through her illustrations, she explores various topics related to food and eating habits:
food addiction;
junk food culture;
dieting;
complex relationships with food.
Her approach is deliberately provocative and visually powerful.
Some of her works combine the logos of major fast-food brands with representations of the health consequences associated with poor nutrition. At times unsettling, the message is nevertheless very clear.
Other artists discovered at the Cité du Livre
This collective exhibition also featured many other artists.
I particularly enjoyed one artist who portrayed Jesus as an extraterrestrial. Another series reimagined famous McDonald's characters as realistic human portraits. The result was funny, original and surprising.
I thoroughly enjoyed discovering these very different artistic worlds.
Lunch in Aix-en-Provence
After a morning filled with artistic discoveries, we began to feel hungry.
We therefore had lunch at La Petite Ferme, a restaurant that Virginie has always enjoyed introducing to me during my stays in Provence.
As always, the meal was excellent and perfectly complemented this cultural day in Aix-en-Provence.
Where was the Max Ernst exhibition held in Aix-en-Provence in 2023?
The exhibition "Max Ernst, Magical Worlds, Liberated Worlds" was presented at Hôtel de Caumont, one of the most iconic cultural venues in Aix-en-Provence.
Located in an elegant eighteenth-century mansion, this art centre hosts exhibitions dedicated to major international artists throughout the year.
Although the exhibition has now ended, Hôtel de Caumont continues to offer a high-quality cultural programme that is well worth a visit during a stay in Aix-en-Provence.
Why did the Max Ernst exhibition leave such a strong impression on visitors?
The aim of this exhibition was to retrace Max Ernst's artistic journey and highlight the evolution of his work.
A key figure of Surrealism, he profoundly influenced several generations of artists through his boundless imagination and numerous technical innovations.
This retrospective offered visitors a deeper understanding of his artistic universe, his development as an artist and his importance in the history of modern art.
For me, this visit was one of the highlights of my stay in Aix-en-Provence.
Learning French while discovering Provençal culture
If you would like to discover Provence in a different way, I highly recommend a stay with Virginie in Provence.
Beyond the landscapes, villages and gastronomy, Virginie enables her students to experience the cultural richness of the region while practising French in everyday situations.
Exhibitions, museums, Provençal markets and local encounters become wonderful opportunities to improve your French in an authentic and friendly environment.




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